ADIRE | KAMPALA: THE ORIGIN

Nigerian culture is multi-ethnic and gives a lot of value to different types of arts; which primarily include ivory carving, grass weaving, wood carving, leather, metal works, and cloth weaving (textile). Among all these forms of art, Adire which is common among the people of Egba land in Ogun State, is probably the most reflective of its cultural origin.

   WHAT IS ADIRE?

Adire commonly known as tie and dye or Kampala is a Yoruba word from (adi) “to tie” and (re) “to dye.” It is an indigo reverse-dyed cloth that was first produced and worn by the Egba land people in the Southwestern city of Abeokuta in Nigeria. The city was historically the centre of cotton production in the nineteenth century. The Yoruba label adire was first applied to indigo-dyed cloth decorated with resist patterns in the early twentieth century. By the second half of the twentieth century, broader color palette of imported synthetic dyes was introduced. After which included a variety of hand-dyed textiles using wax-resist batik methods to produce patterned cloth in a dazzling array of dye tints and hues.

THE FIRST EVER PRODUCTION OF ADIRE

Adire was first produced in Jojola’s compound of Kemta, Abeokuta by Chief Mrs. Miniya Jojolola Soetan, the second Iyalode (Head of Women) of Egba land. The process involves two female dyers called “alaro” who control production and marketing of the fabric and the decorators called “aladire” who create the resist patterns. The indigo reversed dyed cloth gained more fame and recognition over time due to its unique and artistic colors. She then passed on the process to her children and onward to the future generation

HOW ADIRE IS PRODUCED

 

 

Traditionally producing Adire is attributed with different process, this depends on what the Aladire is trying to create, A few of the processes include:

Oniko “Raffia-Tyed” – This process involves tying raffia around small stones or seeds into the fabric to create small white circles on the blue background. Larger circles could be made by lifting a point of fabric and twisting the fabric beneath it tightly or tied in itself.

Alabere “Stitch Resist” – This process involves stitching with thread as a means to resist the dye. It involves stitching raffia spine into the fabric in a pattern before dyeing. After dyeing, the raffia will usually be removed though some leave it in for the wear and tear of the fabric to slowly reveal the pattern.

Batani “Stencil Resist” – This process involves creating patterns that have been cut into zinc stencils to control the application of the resistant starch.

Eleko “Starch Resist” – This process involves resist dyeing using starch made from cassava flour. This starch resists the dye from penetrating the cloth, creating the pattern. Traditionally, it was done using different sized chicken feathers though now metal stencils are been used. The starch is applied to one side of the fabric so the other side would be plain blue. Most designs have repeated patterns created with no focal point of interest.

 

Today, new multi-colored adire uses simple technology and hot wax or paraffin as resist agents in place of the indigenous cassava paste. Designs are created by simple techniques including tie-dye, folding, crumpling, and randomly sprinkling or splashing the hot wax onto a cloth before dyeing.

Due to the high demand for adire, stenciling has largely been replaced by a block printing technique to apply the hot wax.

Whether created by old processes or new innovations, today Adire continues to face fashion challenges, and is still an alternative to machine prints. The textile appeals very much to the fashion conscious in Yorubaland, Nigeria, and on a global level, it is worn by people of all ages, race and background, from being the go-to outfit on a daily basis to an occasional wear, there’s no doubt that Adire has become one of the very popular traditional outfits embraced by all.

Many of our Talented Nigerian Fashion designers has incorporated the use of adire to carve a niche for themselves in the fashion world today, with their unique concept and style of use, among them are:

 

• Yeside Laguda of My Q Lifestyle, she’s known for employing a modern twist to wearable pieces made from the indigenous Tie and Dye fabrics.

 

• Nike Davies- Okundaye, a batik and adire fashion designer, founder of Four Arts Center is notable for her use of visual themes taken from Yoruba history and mythology to create artistic and unique designs, she also offers free training to hundreds of students, some of which includes designers like Amaka Osakwe and Duro Oluwo. Her designs and pattern are well known and embraced all over Nigeria